Hizakurige

by Jippensha Ikku

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Setting

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The Tokaido Highway, the lifeline along Japan's Pacific coast, is a route steeped in history and culture. Central to the Edo period, this highway was not only pivotal for communication but also showcased Japan's evolving landscape. Yaji and Kita, the protagonists of our journey, traverse this storied path, exploring significant locations along the way.

Tokaido Highway: A Journey Through Time

Stretching along the Pacific coastline, the Tokaido Highway, or the Eastern Sea Road, forms the backdrop for Yaji and Kita's adventures. Administered by Japan's central government since the seventh century, it offered a relatively smooth travel experience, though its rivers presented formidable challenges. As the main communication artery during the Edo period, the Tokaido was a hub of activity and cultural exchange. In modern times, it evolved into a vital transportation corridor and industrial belt, becoming Japan's most densely populated region.

Edo: From Fishing Village to Capital

In the heart of Japan lies Edo, a city that transformed from a humble fishing village into the national capital, later renamed Tokyo. Gifted to Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1590, Edo blossomed into a bustling metropolis, with grand castles and a population reaching one million by the mid-18th century. As the political and economic epicenter of Japan during the Edo period, its influence was so profound that the Meiji government retained it as the capital, paying homage to its predecessor, Kyoto, by renaming it "Tokyo," meaning "Eastern Capital."

Ise Shrine: A Sacred Pilgrimage

The Ise Shrine, revered as Japan's most sacred Shinto site, is devoted to the ancestors of the imperial family. Located in Ise city on Honshu's south-central coast, it draws thousands of pilgrims, including Yaji and Kita. Despite their irreverent demeanor, they visit the shrine, making a modest offering of rice and showcasing their indifferent attitude towards traditional customs.

Hakone Range: A Challenging Traverse

The daunting Hakone Range, spanning twenty miles, presents one of the most challenging segments of the journey between Tokyo and Kyoto. Japanese poetry famously declares crossing these mountains impossible even by horseback. However, Yaji and Kita infuse humor into their trek, engaging in lighthearted banter with a ballad singer before embarking on their mountain crossing.

Kanazawa: A City by the Sea

Nestled along the coast, Kanazawa captivates with its distinctive two-story teahouses featuring balustrades and galleries that offer stunning sea views. Yaji and Kita engage in playful interactions as they visit these teahouses, enjoy the local cuisine of fish and wine, and banter with the serving girls. Their attempt to glean directions from a passing boy results in a comical exchange, as he demands a rice cake in return for his assistance.

Osaka: The Journey's End

Concluding their adventure in Osaka, a vibrant city 320 miles southwest of Edo, Yaji and Kita share tales and songs, weaving their journey's narrative into the fabric of the city's culture. Referred to by its ancient name "Naniwa," Osaka becomes the stage for the duo's final storytelling and musical performances, marking the end of their epic journey along the historic Tokaido Highway.

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