Late Twentieth-Century Postmodernist Texts
Postmodernism has been variously defined. Certainly, postmodernism takes the form of montage, the weaving together of information segments to create new narrative identities. For some it is the cultural logic implicit in late capitalism. Others see postmodernism as the condition which results from information floods and information economies. John Barth, in his "The Literature of Replenishment," thinks of postmodernism as a style of literature that replenishes. Each of these definitions can be applied to Allende.
According to some critics of modern Latin American literature, Allende's work belongs to the recently established category of female-written, personal, postmodern, and down-to-earth works, often related to the issues of body and relationships, and written in a tone self-conscious of feminism and poststructuralism. Other writers in this group include Diamela Eltit, Albalucia Angel, and Sylvia Molloy. Although Allende's Aphrodite escapes the confines of fiction and has not been included in the theoretical discourse of current literary traditions, in many ways it falls into the category of contemporary Latin American literature by women writers. With its mixture of autobiographical revelations, intimate tone, everyday issues, fantastic situations, and time- and world-travel in search of the secrets of aphrodisiacs, Allende's book embraces the postmodern tradition in a potpourri-style combination of recipes, erotica, and the numerous methods of research employed in the writing process.
Aphrodite: A Memoir of the Senses maintains a clearly defined feminine insight throughout the tone of the text: Allende's presence in her writing distinctly marks the point of view, the focus, the attitude, and the flow of the book. On several occasions, the author identifies herself as a representative of the female gender, more or less specified on the basis of ethnicity, age, and personal preferences. For example, in her assessment of culinary skill in men and women, she states that it is "fatal" for a woman to admit she can cook; however, men proficient in the kitchen are not only impressive, but irresistibly sexy as well. Allende describes the way she was smitten by her second husband when he prepared dinner for her, "an experience very few Latin American women have had" because "the machos of [their] continent consider any household activity a danger to their perpetually threatened virility." In the chapter "The Spell of Aromas," the author examines in depth the importance of smell in the female erotic experience, again providing personal anecdotes in support of her argument. Also, the sole chapter-length discussion of prostitution is entitled "The Gigolo." In the book's conclusion, Allende writes about love from the female viewpoint, stating: "I don't know how it is with men, but with women no aphrodisiac takes effect without the indispensable ingredient of the affection, which, when carried to perfection, becomes love."
The personal aspect of Aphrodite comes from the intimately autobiographical thread in Allende's writing: from the introduction to the final chapter, the author interweaves her recollections, emotions, and opinions on the book's topics into her "memoir of the senses." In the section "Mea Culpa of the Culpable," the author not only introduces the friends, colleagues, and family members who contributed to the book's creation, but also gives a highly personal account of her own motivation for writing Aphrodite : in great detail, she describes the sensual dreams that have brought her back into the world of senses, from the period of grief and depression after her daughter's death. Allende's memoirs further resume in almost every chapter, not following a temporal sequence but rather picked out from her memory according to specific themes in each of the book's sections. In an analysis of the cheese-making process, she remembers the sensuous experience of observing...
(This entire section contains 1717 words.)
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the handsome Don Maurizio, a great Venezuelan cheesemaker, as he stirred milk with the whole length of his arm—"one of [the author's] most pleasant memories of that difficult period as an immigrant in a foreign land." Similarly, in the chapter "The Language of Flowers," Allende recalls how the forget-me-not flower became the symbol of her nostalgia after she had to flee Chile following the military coup in 1973, in which her uncle, socialist president Salvador Allende, was assassinated. Also, the author's family tree plays a consistent part in her sensual memoir: from table manners to attitudes toward food to relationships, Allende introduces her ancestors, grandparents, relatives and immediate family members' adventures to illustrate her own development as a gourmet-lover. The chapter entitled "The Orgy" begins with the author's childhood memory of her stepfather's elaborate preparations for romantic evenings with his wife, involving Turkish cushions, Peruvian waltzes, luxurious cocktails, and toast points with caviar—all of which sparked Allende's youthful imagination.
The everyday element of Allende's writing in Aphrodite is summed up in her statement that sex and food are the main pillars of existence; she argues that "all of creation is one long uninterrupted cycle of digestion and fertility," as well as that "everything in life [can be] reduced to a process of organisms devouring one another, reproducing themselves, dying, fertilizing the earth, and being reborn transformed." The author further writes that eating and lovemaking are the two things that men and women have in common; the text predominantly deals with heterosexual desire, as Allende identifies herself as such, save for a few mentions of homosexuality (see "The Gigolo" chapter). The book mainly caters to the heterosexual audience in discussing the male-female relationships; thus, sex and food as parts of the everyday life are explored within this realm. However, any discussion of fertility as a purpose of heterosexual union is dismissed early on in the introduction: the author announces that "everyone else, you will have noticed, already has too many children" and that she will instead "concentrate on pleasure" and write about sensuality in both men and women.
Allende proceeds to discuss everyday issues as she advises readers how to prepare a romantic meal and arrange a seduction, how to shop for the best ingredients, and how to "cheat" with truffle-scented oil. Among other things, the book includes basic descriptions of food groups, "Biology 101" analysis of the functioning of human senses, a brief lesson on which wine to serve with which dish, and the necessity of bringing some "spice" into long relationships. The author also writes in a general way about various issues that are part of daily discussion and awareness if not practice, such as the effects of controlled substances on the libido, allergies to certain foods, religious differences and their influence on one's diet and sexual practices, and the impact of one's background on personal preferences—in cuisine and romance.
Overall, Aphrodite is composed of a loosely organized plethora of mythical, historical, and fantastic accounts on the nature, reputation, and effects of aphrodisiacs. In a postmodern style, the author casually and easily crosses the boundaries between the numerous fields of her research to combine erotic literature, folklore, anthropology, history, biology, and various theories in her writing. The items Allende lists in support of a single statement about the aphrodisiac properties of a certain fruit can range from historical anecdotes about the practices of rulers of antiquity, to anthropological examinations of certain patterns of human behavior, to conclusions drawn from personal experience, to scientific analysis of chemical elements of the aforementioned fruit. In a single paragraph in the "Etiquette" chapter, Allende mentions the joy she experiences when making cookies and cleaning vegetables, the sensuality of food eaten with one's hands, the touching of lascivious bodies and delicious dishes at Roman orgies, and the incestuous scene in the 1960s English film Tom Jones when the hero and his mother share a Pantagruelian meal.
The author draws on a variety of fields in her narrative to enrich the descriptions of the world's aphrodisiacs. From history, she takes the recordings of the use of love charms and potions; the impact of religious and class systems on the evolution of attitudes toward sex and food; numerous anecdotes from the lives of noted personages (from the notorious to the glorified); and the occurrence of miscellaneous trends in erotica, through the centuries and all over the world. From biology, Allende borrows the analyses of the functions of human bodies; the statistics on sensual and neural experiences, in humans and other species; and the properties and effects of various chemicals present in particular ingredients or substances. The study of anthropology comes in handy with reports on unusual dietary and sexual habits in remote places and times; a discussion of carnivorous, cannibalistic, and otherwise specific practices; the beliefs in certain aphrodisiac powers responsible for poaching, black magic, and fasting; and the notions of beauty, femininity, and masculinity in different civilizations. Further, Allende also turns to many examples in popular culture to prove her points, from the obsessive depravity of Howard Hughes to the fashionable nouvelle cuisine which the author strongly detests. The book is filled with references to movie scenes in which Epicurean characters devour lush meals, authors of erotica who defended their right to write about passion as they feel it, Latin crooners whose voices are a powerful tool of seduction, and film directors whose recipe for a perfect martini is "allowing a ray of light to pass through the bottle of vermouth and for an instant touch the gin." Allende also makes use of literature, taking excerpts from the Bible, poems by Pablo Neruda, passages from Oriental erotic texts, and various prose and poetry on the topics of romance and cuisine to diversify her assessment of the nature of aphrodisiac.
All in all, Allende's Aphrodite abounds with the characteristics that securely place it within the postmodern, Latin-American, female-authored tradition, despite the tendency at first glance to classify this work as a cookbook, a pillow book, or a self-indulgent, self-help memoir—and, in most cases, as all three. The sense of Aphrodite's lightness is created by the author's casual tone and seeming disorganization of her prose; but the numerous threads of themes, arguments, and illustrations that comprise the colorful texture of the book imperceptibly carry the weight of a new theory of meaning. Allende's work reflects her own montage approach to replenishment and can serve as a piece in our own.
Source: Jeremy W. Hubbell, in an essay for Literature of Developing Nations for Students, Gale, 2000. Hubbell has an M.Litt. from the University of Aberdeen and is currently pursuing a Ph.D. in History at the State University of New York, Stony Brook.
Books in Brief: Nonfiction
If this is just a cookbook, then Allende's novels are just potboilers! From the author of such incomparable novels as House of the Spirits (1985) and the highly evocative collection Stories of Eva Luna (1991) comes a luscious book about aphrodisiacs—the bridge between gluttony and lust. To care less about food preparation with seduction in mind would not prohibit any appreciator of beautiful writing from thoroughly enjoying this extraordinarily seductive book. Yes, Allende does provide recipes, and many of them may spark chemistry between two individuals. But more important than the recipes are her historical and biological ruminations on the inseparability of food and eroticism. With her "sole focus [being] on the sensual art of food and its effects on amorous performance," the author wanders delectably through the ways food arouses the senses, citing tales and truths, folklore and science, and drawing into her discussions other topics such as the role of language in seduction, the need for physical touch, and the pleasures of drinking wine—an act that "lessens inhibitions, relaxes, and fosters joy, three fundamental requirements for good performance." Readers may view their lunch-time Big Macs and fries in a different light after enjoying Allende's pages, for, as she posits, "all of creation is one long uninterrupted cycle of digestion and fertility."
Source: Leslie Chess Feller, "Books in Brief: Nonfiction," in The New York Times, April 5, 1998, sec. 7, p. 25, col. 4.
Book Review of Aphrodite: A Memoir of the Senses
"Eggs"—from caviar to the kind produced by chickens—"lend themselves to all sorts of naughtiness," Isabel Allende writes. (She prefers hers "served on my lover's navel with chopped onion, pepper, salt, lemon and a drop of Tabasco.") In Aphrodite, Allende turns the joyous preparation and consumption of fine food into an erotic catalyst; it culminates in a collection of serious recipes for your first—or next—bacchanal. Illustrated by Robert Shekter's bold nymphs and mischievous satyrs, Aphrodite discusses forbidden fruits, orgies, whispers, pheromones, erotic poetry and Indian tantric rites. Be warned: some aphrodisiacs require more courage and dedication than others. In China, baby cockroaches are tossed into warm rice wine and downed in a single swallow. Although Allende mentions exotica like shark fins, baboon testicles, eye of salamander and the urine of a virgin, her recipes use ingredients that "can be ingested without peril." Serving suggestions, however, can be bold. Regarding a mouthwatering arroz con leche: "You can cover your lover from head to foot ... and slowly lick it off."
Source: Brad Hooper, "Aphrodite: A Memoir of the Senses," (book review) in The Booklist, Vol. 94, No. 11, February 1, 1998, p. 875.
Aphrodite Book Review
Sex and food, once celebrated as two of life's great joys, suffer a lot of bad press these days. Genuine epidemics, coupled with monthly findings of new things that are bad for us, have pushed otherwise happy souls into programs of agonizing denial and, in severe instances, abstinence. Thankfully, in this sophisticated defense of pleasure, novelist Allende (The House of the Spirits) puts the joy back into eating and loving with all the panache that marks the best of her fiction. Though passionate about her subject, she remains consistently whimsical with this mix of anecdotes, recipes and advice designed to enhance any romantic encounter. As always, her secret weapon is honesty: "Some [aphrodisiacs] have a scientific basis, but most are activated by the imagination." Allende's vivacity and wit are in full bloom as she makes her pronouncements: "There are few virtues a man can possess more erotic than culinary skill"; "When you make an omelet, as when you make love, affection counts for more than technique." Her book is filled with succinct wisdom and big laughs. Despite sections titled "The Orgy" and "Supreme Stimulus for Lechery," Allende comes down emphatically for romance over sex and for ritual over flavor in a work that succeeds in being what it intends to be—fun from the first nibble to the last.
Source: Genevieve Stuttaford, Maria Simson, and Jeff Zaleski, "Aphrodite: A Memoir of the Senses," (book review) in Publisher's Weekly, Vol. 245, No. 3, January 19, 1998, p. 360.