What indications are there that Ralph is learning from the experiences?

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In many ways, I would argue that the evidence points somewhat to the contrary.  Rather than finding ways to directly combat Jack's superior charisma and more direct leadership style, Ralph continues to cling to the ideas that he followed to power at the beginning of the story.  He does allow Piggy to help him rationalize some things and is comforted by that rational presence, but at other times he continues to fight with Jack in a way that he knows he cannot win.

If you look at their conflict from a larger level, there are moments where Ralph and Jack acknowledge their struggle, their debates are at times on a different level than some of the more physical fights they sometimes get into, but it does not appear that Ralph learns anything except a healthy fear of what boys will do without any order or oversight to help them.

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