If you are a fan of Nathalie Dupree, you will like her new cookbook. You can watch her prepare her dishes on television, then refer to the book for measurements, times, and instructions.
If you enjoyed Dupree’s previous cookbooks, you will find this new book suits you to a tee. Recipes that might tempt you include Quick Chicken Taj Mahal, an excellent saffron-spiced dish, or chicken fried steak, a Southern specialty which features beef, not chicken.
Adventurous spirits whose families never question what is put in front of them will love these recipes. However, for the pickier crowd, the recipes that will pass muster are few and far between. Dupree cooks with cream, gravies, and lots of butter. She says that the cream sauces can be served to company and not the family, as though your guests were any less health-conscious than you. Many of the foods are fried, so that even low-fat poultry becomes fat-ridden with Dupree’s recipes. The ultimate affront to the nutrition-conscious is “Russ Parsons’s Luxurious Diet Mashed Potatoes,” which calls for 3 pounds of potatoes and 1 pound of butter, and serves 6 to 8. They are delicious, but who wants half a stick of butter in each serving of mashed potatoes?
The inexperienced cook may also find this book frustrating, such as when trying the Marinated Rib Eye (page 177) and finding no indication of the time required to cook the beef to 125 degrees. This cookbook may well reflect the way people actually cook (i.e., just cook it until it is done), but the hostess who expects to serve dinner at a certain time would like to know whether to start the meat half an hour or two hours before serving time.