Italian Provincial Cookery

The book’s first two sections cover the basic dishes from antipasto to desserts and include tips and basic recipes (seasoning, pasta, and sauces) from Bea Lazzaro’s kitchen. The third and largest section of the book is devoted to regional recipes.

Beginning with northern Italy’s Piedmont region and concluding with Sicily, the authors list the wines native to each region, their beers, and their cheeses, their special character, history, and dishes. Recipes for each region follow a similar order, starting with antipasto and proceeding through egg dishes, special breads, soups, pasta and sauces, rice and other grains, seafood, meat, poultry and game, vegetables, fruits and cheeses, and concluding with desserts.

Included are such well-known favorites as risotto Milanese, risie bisi, and spaghetti alla carbonara. Also featured are delicacies from Lombardy such as minestrone alla Milanese, and Piedmont’s pollo alla Marengo.

Not quite for beginners, each recipe requires several steps in preparation and often a fair amount of time. Ideal complements to ITALIAN PROVINCIAL COOKERY are Marcella Hazen’s CLASSIC ITALIAN COOKING and MORE CLASSIC ITALIAN COOKING, in which recipes are organized by course rather than by region.