1794 - Restaurants

Restaurants

Paris has 500 restaurants (see Boulanger, 1765); many of its best chefs have long since fled the country, but only now do people other than royalty and aristocrats begin to enjoy the French cuisine that has developed since the arrival of Catherine de' Medici from Florence in 1533.

A Boston restorator opens in a 17th-century house at the northwest corner of Milk and Congress streets under the management of French refugee Julien (Jean-Baptiste Gilbert Payplat Julien), who introduces Bostonians to cheese fondue, truffles from Périgord, and a clear soup so delicious that news of it soon reaches another French refugee. Paris lawyer Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, 39, journeys from New York to Boston to sample consommé Julien and other examples of Julien's cuisine. Having won election 5 years ago as a deputy to the Assemblé Constituante Brillat-Savarin fled the Terror in 1792 after being threatened with punishment as a traitor to the republic. He went to Switzerland and England before voyaging to America and supports himself by giving language lessons and playing his violin in a New York theater orchestra. He will return to France in 1796 to become a judge in the court of appeal at Paris and will later be secretary to the general staff of the Army of the Republic in Germany (see food, 1825).

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