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Can someone tell me

Including Chaucer, 30, though not all tell tales.

29 pilgrims, and Chaucer, the narrator, makes 30.  Chaucer died before he finished writing the stories all the pilgrims were to tell ...the plan was one on the way and one on the way back. They were all to vote based on entertainment value and moral taught--the winner gets a free dinner paid for by everyone else upon their return to the Tabard Inn. 

There were 30 pilgrims PLUS Chaucer and the Host.  Twenty-nine meet at the Tabard, and the 30th joins on the way.  Chaucer goes along as a naive observer--a "reporter," if you will.  The Host, Harry Bailey, goes along as (1)the guide; (2) the one who suggests the idea of telling stories on the way to Canterbury and on the return from Canterbury  to pass the time; (3)the judge for the best tale--the winner will receive a sumptuous feast paid for by the rest of the pilgrims.